Autumn in the West Corsica region

West Corsica: the sea and the mountains in a verdant setting

From Sagone, in the Cinarca, the former « land of knights », take the time to stroll along the great deserted beaches in autumn or to strike out and explore the authentic landscapes on horseback, riding along riverside and coastal trails and mule tracks.

Murzo is home to the Corsican Honey Festival(AOC product) that takes place during the last weekend in September in the heart of the village, bringing together beekeepers and artisans from across the region.

It is also the departure point for a very beautiful route that leads to Rezza, running alongside gorges and the pretty abandoned village of Muna that was built on the mountainside. If time permits, keep climbing as far as Soccia in the heart of the Corsican Regional Nature Park, either to gain access to the GR20 walking route or to explore the magnificent Creno Lake,which is flanked by Laricio pines.

On the way down to Sagone, perched on an outcrop you can spot the village of Cargèse, known as « la grecque » situated on the site of a Greek colony dating from the XVII Century. The original feature of this village is the fact that it has 2 churches sitting face to face; one Greek Orthodox and the other Roman Catholic. You can sample Bastelle, vegetable tartlets, or Ambruciate, tartlets made with Brocciu cheese, as you meander through the town’s narrow streets. Up until the month of October, boat excursions are available from the ports of Cargèse or Sagone that give visitors a different perspective of the coast. 

From Cargèse, continue on towards Piana, listed as one of the Most Beautiful Villages of France, which overlooks the Gulf of Porto and sits opposite the peninsulas of Senino and Scandola.

Then take up the winding route that heads to Porto and let yourself be seduced by the rocky creeks, or Calanques, of Piana with its rugged coastline of pink granite rock that contrasts with the blue of the sea and the intense green of the Maquis. Be sure to stop at one of the car parks that sit alongside the Calanques in order to admire the superb rock formations. 

In Porto, you can step aboard the passenger boats that, up until October, visit the reserve of Scandola that boasts grandiose landscapes that were the result of the eruption of an ancient volcano, as well as the cove of Girolata with its small Genoese fort. This sanctuary is home to an incredible wealth of animal and plant life: osprey, bearded vulture, dolphins…

Those who prefer the mountains should head in the direction of Evisa, a picturesque village where the walking trails meet (Mare e Monti or Mare e Mare Nord) at one of Corsica’s most beautiful forests of Laricio pine.  This provides a gourmet stop where you can purchase marrons glacés or honey.  The Marron Fair takes place on the last Sunday in November in the heart of the village, gathering together agricultural producers, artisans and stall-holders with extensive local knowledge.

Return to Sagone via Vico, a real Corsican village that is warm and lively, built up around adorable little squares and nestling in a mountainous setting, including La Sposata (the wife) that is famous for its legend….. The Saint-François convent, on the road to Arbori, is worth seeing for its XVII Century church, where you can find the oldest wooden statue of Christ in Corsica (XIVth).

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