By Clémence the 24/07/2019

GT20/Stage 4: Belgude - Calinzana

The Balagne, with its happy residents

43 km - 521m uphill

 

Tracé OpenRuner here

After a nice break in Belgude, we head off towards Calinzana (Calenzana). This 43km stage with 521 metres of incline is not especially difficult.

 

©ATC-Sylvain ALESSANDRI ©ATC-Sylvain ALESSANDRI

The roads follow each other and are not alike! Landscapes still so green, the road of the villages in balcony bears its name well. I stay on the main road D71, but it is possible to climb in the villages of Ville-di-Paraso, Speloncato and Nessa.

©ATC-Sylvain ALESSANDRI ©ATC-Sylvain ALESSANDRI

Belgude

Nestled into a bend in the road, a beautiful building set against the backdrop of the mountain grabs my attention; it is the Osteria U Mulinu (meaning Mill Inn). This tricentennial oil mill is still turning today and is maintained by Joseph Ambrosini who will welcome you, if you have a reservation, for what is apparently one of the most authentic and atypical dining experiences around…although this remains to be tested (sadly our arrival didn’t correspond with meal times!).

 

©ATC-Sylvain ALESSANDRI ©ATC-Sylvain ALESSANDRI
©ATC-Clémence RAFFI ©ATC-Clémence RAFFI

There was, however, a fountain where we were able to fill up our water bottles.

©ATC-Sylvain ALESSANDRI ©ATC-Sylvain ALESSANDRI
©ATC-Sylvain ALESSANDRI ©ATC-Sylvain ALESSANDRI

The exit sign for the “Route des vins” (Wine Trail) is located on the other side of the road, so we are actually entering…something for wine enthusiasts to bear in mind.

 

The pretty village of Filicetu (Feliceto) is located in the Montegrosso mountains, which surround it, together with a lot of greenery and a river. This river, called the Reginu, cuts through it and waters the plain of the same name.

 

©ATC-Clémence RAFFI ©ATC-Clémence RAFFI
©ATC-Clémence RAFFI ©ATC-Clémence RAFFI

This is the Garden of Corsica’s real heart; green oaks, pines and chestnut trees intermingle on the hills and olive trees welcome you at the entrance to the village right up to the plain of Reginu, which also hosts the vineyards of the domaines Renucci and Maestracci. We are very much on the Wine trail!

 

                                                                                                      The Reginu Valley is a Natura 2000 site and if you really keep your eyes peeled for them you might just see some rare bird species such as the Red Kite.

 

©ATC-Clémence RAFFI ©ATC-Clémence RAFFI

Continuing onwards towards Montemaggiore, we enjoy a superb view over the bay of Calvi, which we are able to enjoy to the full, being undisturbed by traffic.

 

©ATC-Clémence RAFFI ©ATC-Clémence RAFFI

I am cycling with my father for this part of the route (see photo).

©ATC-Clémence RAFFI ©ATC-Clémence RAFFI
©ATC-Clémence RAFFI ©ATC-Clémence RAFFI

Although the road has seen better days, it nevertheless remains perfectly usable and will satisfy mountain bikers as well as road cyclists (isn’t that what “gravel mode” is for? :) ). As with the rest of the route, you should watch out for potholes.

©ATC-Clémence RAFFI ©ATC-Clémence RAFFI

Although the road has seen better days, it nevertheless remains perfectly usable and will satisfy mountain bikers as well as road cyclists (isn’t that what “gravel mode” is for? :) ). As with the rest of the route, you should watch out for potholes.

©ATC-Clémence RAFFI ©ATC-Clémence RAFFI
©ATC-Clémence RAFFI ©ATC-Clémence RAFFI
©ATC-Clémence RAFFI ©ATC-Clémence RAFFI
©ATC-Clémence RAFFI ©ATC-Clémence RAFFI
©ATC-Clémence RAFFI ©ATC-Clémence RAFFI

                                  The village of Calinzana (Calenzana) welcomes us 6 kilometres further on. This is the village where hikers mix with cyclists and locals at the start or end of the GR20, and you need only look at the state of people’s footwear for confirmation.

  

With its lovely view and terraces making it the ideal place for a break, I warmly recommend local bakery U Castellu di Santarellu which makes the best fiadonu that we’ve ever tasted (according to my father, anyway, who is always eating them).

 

©ATC-Clémence RAFFI ©ATC-Clémence RAFFI
©ATC-Clémence RAFFI ©ATC-Clémence RAFFI
©ATC-Clémence RAFFI ©ATC-Clémence RAFFI

Given there’s no lack of hotels and tourist accommodation, you might alternatively want to take a proper break here and stay for the night.

If not, and it’s still relatively early, the next stage towards Galeria is not a long one.

 

Further information

The terraced villages of la Balagne.

 

 

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