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An experience in Eastern Corsica
Producers, natural sites, artisans, and the owners of tourist accommodation are entering into an initiative for excellence, to promote quality Corsican produce and know-how. Such are the riches to be discovered across the entire Corsican territory, and it’s in Eastern Corsica specifically that I decide to treat myself to a little trip! My itinerary comprises a visit to a vineyard, an orchard, a little culture with a look round a Museum and to finish up, a great night with dinner in a guest house!
First stop on my route is Aléria, and the Clos Canereccia (U Chjosu Canereccia) where Christian Esteve, uses amphora to produce a number of organic wines. The image of Dionysos is everywhere here: from the cellar walls, to the rooms recounting the history of this “divine beverage”, from the days of the Romans to the present time. The owner of the clos (meaning enclosed garden) has chosen the route of a tourism based on identity, culture, heritage, and history. Giving his produce a strong identity; a bet that’s paid off for Christian Esteve! I learn about the history of banqueting in Etruscan and Roman times - a dive into history accompanied by a good glass of wine by way of an aperitif!
When lunchtime comes around we head over to "Chez Marie" a colourful and warm eatery where the prevailing mood seems to be one of good cheer and where, most importantly, dishes are prepared with fresh produce sourced from local producers. Organic vegetables, PDO cured meats, organic beef and veal and, of course, Corsican wines and cheeses, everything you need for authentic home cooking! I opt for fried calamari to start with, followed by spaghetti carbonara and finish up with a tarte tatin that would rival the greatest pâtissiers!!!
n the afternoon, an unusual visit awaits me: a vitamin-infused trip to the heart of a citrus grove in Muniglia hamlet - ”E Rondoline” in the commune of Antisanti: PGI clementines, finger limes, limes and oranges … Claudine and Laurent have a passion for citrus, clementines in particular, and take great pleasure in showing me their place of work during a vitamin-filled stroll through their grove. There’s also a tasting session, just when we’re all feeling peckish - canistrelli and homemade preserve made from fruits harvested on site.
By late afternoon it’s with history that I have a date: at the Museum of Aleria and its archaeological site. When I arrive at the Fort d’Aleria the contrast is striking: the upper town bears witness to its Roman and Etruscan past, having kept its old stones while the lower town is modern and future-facing.
There is a clear view of the snow-covered mountains on one side and the deep blue Mediterranean, on the other. My Museum visit is almost moving: vases, swords, bronze, crockery - everything bears witness to a remote past. I wander through the four rooms devoted to the excavated tombs of the pre-Roman necropolis. and then cross some fields to reach the archaeological site. The landscape and its cypress trees remind me of neighbouring Tuscany while the remains unearthed by years of excavations show me what Alalia (Aleria) was like around the year 1000 B.C.. An enchanting, timeless place.
When evening falls, I make my way to "Mare e Monti" guesthouse, in Maison Pieraggi, a few kilometres from Ghisonaccia, where I’ve chosen to spend the night. I’m delighted to be offered a free aperitif on arrival! I settle into my room, which is comfortable and warm, just how I like it, then dinner is awaiting me: tonight will be garden vegetable and spuntinu (cheese, cured meats and carefully chosen wine). The owners, who are very environmentally committed, explain the philosophy of their guesthouse to me: the property is fitted with solar water-heating, composting toilets, and a shower running on agricultural water for their own personal use. They encourage waste sorting by making waste sorting bags available to guests. There’s compost and a chicken coop in the garden for disposing of food waste! And after a good night’s sleep, and a solid breakfast the following morning, also prepared with “homegrown” produce, I set off again feeling relaxed and rested and ready to take on a new week of work!
©eco tourisme corse orientale
At Marie's house
©eco tourisme corse orientale
Mare Monti Bed and Breakfasts
©ATC
Clos Canereccia
