By Anne the 15/02/2023
Jerry from Epinal, had a precocious vocation. At the age of 4 he announced to his parents that he wanted to become a cook. He never missed an opportunity to sneak into the kitchen when they took him to a restaurant. However, he had to wait until he was old enough to enter the Ecole Hôtelière de Gérardmer.
At the age of 19, he took his backpack to England and worked in restaurants where they truly honoured French Cuisine. Five years later, he returned to France to work alongside the starred chef Edouard Loubet at the Moulin de Lourmarin, then left for a few seasons, notably in Contrexéville, where he discovered the 'gastronomie allégée (light gastronomy)'.
It was during a season in Courchevel in 2004 that he met the owner of Le Pirate, Jean-Pierre Ricci, who asked him to join the kitchen team of his restaurant in Cap Corse for the summer.
A year after his arrival, he was promoted sous chef, then the following year to chef, and in 2006 he was awarded a star. He joined forces with the owner of Le Pirate and in 2018 ended up buying the establishment, which has built up a solid reputation.
Tasting Jerry Monmessin's creative and refined cuisine is like embarking on a gustatory journey between land and sea, undertaking a magnificent aromatic stroll with original, delicate and well-balanced mix of flavours. The generous and harmonious dishes shows an efficient, passionate and committed team, guided by an inspired chef. He is supported by a sous chef, Paul-Antoine Digiacomi, who is brimming with creativity and enthusiasm. Jerry Monmessin has the art of presenting the richness of the Corsican terroir and its exceptional products with elegance.
He often plays with flavours heckled by little touches of citrus fruit subtly measured and balanced, which pleasantly titillate the taste buds. For Jerry, cooking is never static, it is always taking shape, revealing a palette rich in colours, tastes and aromas.
Without further a do, embark in the heart of the most beautiful landscapes of Corsica for a beautiful gourmet escapade, you will not be disappointed!
The Chef’s recommendation
Fish : Poissonnerie Garbani in Bastia
Cow and tiger calf: Jacques Abbatucci, Fil Di Rosa farm in Serra-di-Ferro - www.vachetigre.com
Olive oil: Oltremonti Mill in Linguizetta - www.oltremonti.fr
Tomatoes, strawberries, courgettes, aromatic herbs: Pépinière Jam & Frère, Quentin and Antoine Jamet in Cagnano
Discover: 58 € or 78 €, Pleasure: 98 €, Lobster: from 198 €
A la carte : average price 95 €.
Erbalunga, 20222 Brando
Tel: 04 95 33 24 20 - www.restaurantlepirate.com
Ingredients for 4 people:
4 red mullet 1 l water • 50 g salt • For the sauce: 30 g butter • Garlic • Fennel • Tomato • Onion • Sherry vinegar • 1 square of dark chocolate • For the miso marinade : 200 g red miso • 80 g olive oil • 40 g red fruit vinegar • 52 g fresh blackberries • For the miso aubergines: 2 aubergines • For the blackberry pickles: 200 g blackberries • 300 g white balsamic vinegar • 35 g sugar • For the sauce: 30 g butter • Garlic • Fennel • Tomato • Onion • Sherry vinegar • 1 square of dark chocolate • For the miso marinade: 200 g red miso • 80 g olive oil • 40 g red fruit vinegar • 52 g fresh blackberries
Preparation: 2 h 30 / Cooking time: 8 h
For the red mullet: Gut the mullet, reserve the livers and bones, lift them, keeping the fillets attached to the tail, remove the bones and then slit the tail evenly so that the skin does not shrink. Put the fillets in a 5% brine (1 l of water for 50 g of salt).
For the sauce: Cut the aromatic garnish. Colour the red mullet heads and bones with olive oil, halfway through the colouring add the butter and the aromatic garnish, remove the juices and deglaze with the sherry vinegar. Add the red wine and the white stock. Cook for about 1h30. Pass through a sieve and reduce to the desired consistency. Just before serving, add the red mullet livers, butter and chocolate. Blend and pass through a sieve again. Do not boil the sauce again.
For the cuttlefish confit: Open the cuttlefish, remove the head, bone and ink. Clean well. Remove the skin from both sides, place in a vacuum bag with olive oil, garlic, salt and rosemary. Steam at 72°C for 8 hours. For the miso/blackberry marinade: Crush the blackberries and mix with the rest of the ingredients.
For the miso aubergine: The day before: cook the aubergines whole in a steamer at 95°C for 45 minutes. Cut off the heads and peel them as soon as they come out of the oven, then place them in a pressurised piece of tork paper in the refrigerator overnight.
For the blackberry pickles: The day before: heat the vinegar and sugar, then pour over the hot blackberries and cover, leaving to cool overnight. Remove the blackberries from the vinegar and crush them, keeping some pieces.
To prepare: Brown the aubergines on the plancha, cut them in three lengthways and then open them in half, spread the marinade on all sides. Brown a rectangle of cuttlefish on both sides and place it in the middle of the aubergine. Put a layer of miso marinade on top, cover with sauce and put in the oven for 3 minutes. Brown the red mullet fillets a la plancha, keeping them pink. When they come out of the oven, lacquer the aubergines again with the sauce. Make five dots of blackberry pickles along the entire length. Put ¼ of the fresh blackberries on each dot and add the purple and green shiso shoots. Serve the sauce between the red mullet and the aubergine.
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