By Anne the 15/02/2023
In a chic and refined atmosphere without being stuffy, the beautiful restaurant room and its charming terrace surrounded by gardens, facing the swimming pool, are a setting to enjoy the plates of chef Lionel Lebrun.
The latter delivers a Mediterranean cuisine which revisits the Corsican classics and innovates from his overflowing of inspirations. Not particularly keen on studies, Lionel instinctively decided to follow in the footsteps of his grandfather, a fine cook who entered the CFA in his native town in 1996, Blois, at the age of 15.
Passionate about traveling, the young man spent a year in Germany in a Michelin-starred restaurant after completing his apprenticeship at the Domaine de Seillac before joining a brasserie on the banks of Lake Geneva in Lausanne. His journey then took him to the German part of Switzerland and then to the Swiss Valais. Driven by the desire to discover Corsica in 2004 at 24, his mother’s, and grandmother's native land, he took his first position as chef at Roi Théodore in Porto Vecchio.
At the end of the season, he left for Tours to launch a lounge restaurant, but the desire to return to Corsica was very present and after a year, he joined the kitchens of a fishermen's restaurant in Pinarello, Le Golfe.
In 2008, he was contacted by the A Cheda, which had just been awarded a fourth star, and was looking for a chef who could transcribe the character of this charming and atypical place onto the plates. He began by selecting the best local producers and fishermen, artisans who were passionate about their work and in love with their land and developed an eight-hectare vegetable garden of aromatic plants, fruits and vegetables grown in permaculture where he picked his products before each service.
Each element is chosen with the utmost care to compose harmonious palettes of flavours. This rigorous chef likes regularity in cooking, seasoning and presentation.
No unnecessary ingredients are used in his dishes. Lionel Lebrun has set up immersions in his kitchen allowing two guests to experience the behind-the-scenes, and take part in the preparation and start of the dinner service, before tasting the Nustrale Surprise Menu, created according to the chef's inspiration and the day's market.
A great moment to share !
The Chefs’ recommended places
Pig Nustrale : Sebastien Duval et Sylvie Adani La Ferme de Casella à Bonifacio
Goats cheese : Evelyne et Stéphane Roghi à Bonifacio
Sustainable fishing : Damien Catoire et Philippe Botti à Bonifacio
Charcuterie Nustrale : Don-Jacques et Jean Zani - Charcuterie À Cuzanaccia à Cozzano
Olive oil : Anne Amalric - Domaine Marquiliani à Aghione
Menu U Bunifazincu in 5 courses : 69 €, Menu Nustrale Surprise in 8 courses : 99 €,
Prestige menu in 9 courses : 149 €, Menu Nustrale Surprise in 8 courses : 99 €.
Prestige menu in 9 courses: 149 €.
Menu prepared and served by the cooks with an overview of the kitchen for 2 people in 10 courses: 179 €.
Timeless menu average price: 80 €.
Hotel A Cheda 4*
Route de Porto-Vecchio, Cavallo Morto, 20169 Bonifacio
Tel: 04 95 73 03 82 - https://acheda-hotel.com
CORB FROM HEAD TO BONE
Ingredients for 4 people:
3 corbs (or sea bream) of 400 to 600 g/piece, one of which is for the mousseline • For the corb mousseline: the fillets of one of the 3 corbs • 1 egg white • 1 dash of cream • Herbs from the garden • Salt, pepper, chilli • For the borage chlorophyll: 300 g borage leaves • 1 l water • 9 g agar • Coarse salt • For the lemon gel: 500 g lemon juice • 50 g sugar • 7 g agar.
Preparation: 1 h / Cooking time: 12 min
For the fish: lift two corbs like a wallet, holding the tail. Remove the head, hollow it out and cut it in half, set it aside. Remove the bones, rinse and set aside.
For the corb mousseline: process all the ingredients in a food processor and remove into a pastry bag. Spread a piece of cling film lengthwise and season. Place the fish in a wallet manner and stuff them with the mousseline. Close tightly. Bake for 12 minutes at 65°C then glaze.
For the borage chlorophyll: blanch the leaves in salted water then blend them in a blinder. Boil with the agar-agar, season and pour into a plate to the desired size. Set aside.
For the lemon gel: whisk to 85°C. Set aside in a cool place. Mix once set and remove with a pipette.
For the bones and dried head: boil water and immerse the bones in it for 30 seconds. Cool and clean. Cut the heads to your liking, place between two baking trays and dry in the oven at 120°C for 6 hours.
For the dressing: cut a disc of borage chlorophyll jelly. Cut the fish in half, cutting the tail in half as well. Arrange on the plate, add the head and the bone as decoration, then dots of lemon gel and a drizzle of olive oil.
Famidda de Peretti
della Rocca Jules 2021
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